Let Loose the Feathers and Sparkles!
Creating Your Burlesque Costume
Written by Catherine Irving of Crystal Pegasus Costumes
CPC image credit by 42nd Street Photography
I love creating costumes! This will not come as a surprise to anyone who has spent much time with me, as I’m pretty vocal about it. I love the power it gives me to bring a vision to life, to sculpt a silhouette and play with movement.
There is no right or wrong way to create a costume for a burlesque act. It could be covered in rhinestones or have none at all. Sewing each piece yourself, adjusting existing garments, buying ready made, or commissioning them to be made! It’s about finding what suits you, for the particular act, at a given moment in time. Costumes can change and evolve, as you do as a performer!
When costuming for a showcase course act, there might be a clearcut guideline about the costume – as well as the positives of strict visual cohesion on stage. This can also be useful for the budding burlesque performer to try different styles and see what works (or doesn’t) for them and their body. Alternatively, it may be much more open to individuality! And then you’ll need a similar approach to if you were designing a costume for a solo act.
Here are a few things to consider when designing your burlesque costume.
Image credit 42nd Street Photography
Costume Basics
My general advice for starting out is to keep it simple – get yourself a black set and a nude/gold/silver set (bra, knickers, pasties, stockings, shoes) and then build from there. You can decorate however you wish – and remember, you can build up the level of sparkles over time! It would be remiss of me to not remind you to cut off any tags (they can ruin a look) – and if you’re worried about keeping the tag info, then snap a photo of the garment, and a close up of the tag, and save in a dedicated folder on your phone.
From there comes the fun part – the playful pieces! The floaty skirts and the funky jackets! The feather headpieces and the cheeky, unexpected pieces. It can be very helpful to sketch out your vision! If you’re sewing, then for larger projects, you may even want to collect fabric samples and see how they work together.
What is the goal of the costume?
Do you have a costume in mind, and you’re building the act around it? (That may be my general approach…). If so, I’d encourage you to lean into this - it can be a great starting point, and finding music and moves to match can be a lot of fun! Alternatively, do you have a plan for the choreography and music, but no set costume ideas? Your costume should complement the emotion of your act. Things to consider include silhouette, colour palette, fabric type and texture. For a soft, ethereal feel, you’ll probably want drapey chiffon, perhaps some bridal tulle (which tends to be softer than most tulle). Is it a comedic act? Perhaps you’ll want to build up cartoonish shapes with sparkly craft foam sheets (the sort you can also make simple pasties from).
Mechanics of Removal
You should think about how the different costume pieces fit together, and how they will come off! Are they normal pieces of clothing, or are there special removal processes? In what order will this all happen?
Is it a fast reveal? Consider the classic of snaps down the sides of your pants/shorts/skirt – keep in mind that if adapting from an existing garment, you should go a couple of sizes bigger than normal, to allow for the overlap of the snaps.
Is it slow? Then maybe all you need to do is untie/unbutton/undo the regular garment. At the opposite end of the spectrum for slow, perhaps you’re completely wrapped up to begin with, and over the course of the act unwind vast rivers of fabric!
Corsets generally come with either a traditional “busk” opening (the hooks and loops that attach at the centre front), or a zipper. Either way, I recommend that you loosen the laces at the back before undoing the front, or you risk damaging them! There are also other, more unusual quick release mechanisms, which can create drama and excitement! While we’re on corsets, I note that a well-fitting corset should feel like a supportive hug. (There are so many myths out there about corsetry…. It can be quite frustrating as a corsetiere!)
Maybe you’re not removing anything at all, and you want an exquisite little outfit that peeks out from behind feather or silk fans. Whatever you do, the aim is for something that make you feel amazing!
Image credit 42nd Street Photography
Time = Money: Striking the Balance
Once you have an initial design in mind, we now come to what can be tricky questions: what is your budget, and how much time do you have to bring your design to life? This is an important consideration! You need to find a balance between the two, and your design may evolve upon consideration of it. Different costume pieces will suit you at different times. Sewing (and rhinestoning) is wonderful, but it can indeed suck up many, many hours. Thrifting pieces and adapting can an economical approach for a burly babe on a budget.
One option is to commission some or all components of a costume. Indeed, this can be a way to support slow, ethical fashion. There are various small businesses in the Maison Family, so let’s celebrate a few of them!
And just so you know where to find me: Crystal Pegasus Costumes is on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube
Stretch Fabric Tips
Many costume pieces are made from stretch fabric, and whether you’re sewing from scratch or decorating an existing garment, here’s a few things to keep in mind:
Use a zig zag stitch when using a sewing machine.
Sew on a piece of elastic to add strength (i.e. where you want to add a row of snaps), while keeping the stretch properties.
When applying non-stretch lace to a stretch garment, build in that ability to grow by gathering the lace as you attach it (and be sure the tightness of your stitches is not the limiting factor!) .
Alternatively, you can choose to place the non-stretch decoration only on certain parts of the costume, still leaving enough other space for stretch to occur.
Out into the Technicolour World
The final sentiment that I wish to impart is that I hope you can join me in the delight of CREATING costumes! Burlesque is an art that brings joy in so many ways, and the garments, props and accessories are a jubilant component! If you find (or already know!) that you love an aspect of costume making, then there are probably people out there who would be keen to commission pieces from you! And if you’re looking for a little guidance in the practical sewing side of things, then it would be a delight to see you in a sewing class!
About Crystal Pegasus Costumes
Image credit 42nd Street Photography
Catherine has an exuberant love for creating fantasy and historically inspired costumes! From beautifully structured corsets to floaty skirts, she adores it all!
With over a decade of tertiary teaching experience, and a YouTube channel devoted to her sewing, Catherine will ensure your journey is fun and enjoyable as you develop your sewing skills!